E36M3 #1396

Wednesday, June 20, 2001 16:35:03

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: Cheapest source for front wheel bearings... - from Neil Maller
#2. Re: [E36M3] Fire extinguisher mount - from Chester Wong
#3. Re: Manufacture - from Neil Maller
#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Manufacture - from nabli@attglobal.net
#5. Re: [E36M3] Manufacture - from Ron Katona
#6. Re: flywheel rattle - from Ron Katona
#7. Re: [E36M3] Anyone tracked Bridgestone RE730s? - from Peter Guagenti
#8. Re: [E36M3] Manufacture - from Joe Tan
#9. Coupe Window Adjustment - from J. Eric Trela
#10. Re: [E36M3] Coupe Window Adjustment - from Sue Kraft

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#1. Re: Cheapest source for front wheel bearings... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:10:57 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cheapest source for front wheel bearings... on 6/19/01 2:14 PM, Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> wrote: > so now I'll give my front wheel bearings a try... > Can somebody tell me where I can find them at a good price? I bought mine from Steve D'G - www.ultimategarage.com. Neil 96 M3

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Fire extinguisher mount - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:38:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fire extinguisher mount If you have powered seats, you can get fire extinguisher bracket made by Brey Krause (availble at www.ogracing.com). If you have manual seats, they are currently working on a solution for that. Chester --- Bob Larson <asp9111@home.com> wrote: > I'm doing a hillclimb where they require a min. 5BC on metal bracket. > Any ideas on the easiest way to get a backet ? I don't have harness bar, > or any other obvious place to put it. I found the factory > below-the-seat-mount: > on http://www.unofficialbmw.com//images/image158.htm > But this seems more permanent and a chore to take the seat out and > muck with the upolstery... I wonder if I take the glove box off, I might > find somewhere to bolt a metal bracket...or ?? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#3. Re: Manufacture - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:28:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Manufacture on 6/20/01 9:14 AM, Mark Greene <gsa@arpinintl.com> wrote: > Hello: This may be off base, I am not 100% sure. I had a prob with my > insurance yesterday and found out th 96 M3 I bought a couple of months > ago only has liablility coverage on it. When I called, they said they > were having probs cause the VIN was throwing some warnings.....i.e. > this car was made and imported from Germany. At first I wanted to say > duh? As you know, all M3s are made in and imported from Germany. > BMW but the insurance agent said that technically because of this > it is a grey mkt car that may not have passed EPA, etc. I ran a few 96 > VINs from Roundel on carfax and am using the VIN decoder as well which > shows either Germany or SC for Manufacture, does this ring any bells > with anyone? Thanks, Mark Very unlikely - it's more or less impossible to import a grey market car any more. Legally anyway. The last 7 characters of the VIN will positively identify whether your car is a USA market vehicle or not. Either your dealer or anyone with the Parts CD can plug these in and ID it for you. I'd be glad to run them for you. Neil 96 M3

Reply to: Neil Maller

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Manufacture - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:04:12 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Manufacture Guys, I already asked Mark for the info and this was my response based on his vin#: Mark, According to your numbers you DEFINITELY have a 1996 USA M3 3.2 with a manual transmission and the car was even built in May 1996. THe body code is a BG93. This info is from BMW btw! It is most definitely NOT a gray market car! Tell the insurance guy he's full of shit! Cheers, Jim E. Neil Maller wrote: Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:28:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Manufacture on 6/20/01 9:14 AM, Mark Greene <gsa@arpinintl.com> wrote: > Hello: This may be off base, I am not 100% sure. I had a prob with my > insurance yesterday and found out th 96 M3 I bought a couple of months > ago only has liablility coverage on it. When I called, they said they > were having probs cause the VIN was throwing some warnings.....i.e. > this car was made and imported from Germany. At first I wanted to say > duh? As you know, all M3s are made in and imported from Germany. > BMW but the insurance agent said that technically because of this > it is a grey mkt car that may not have passed EPA, etc. I ran a few 96 > VINs from Roundel on carfax and am using the VIN decoder as well which > shows either Germany or SC for Manufacture, does this ring any bells > with anyone? Thanks, Mark Very unlikely - it's more or less impossible to import a grey market car any more. Legally anyway. The last 7 characters of the VIN will positively identify whether your car is a USA market vehicle or not. Either your dealer or anyone with the Parts CD can plug these in and ID it for you. I'd be glad to run them for you. Neil 96 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Manufacture - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:29:54 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manufacture Daniel wrote: > Maybe he typed in the wrong VIN number > Tell him to try again Probably... but it could be a bigger problem. I thought I read on another list that BMW is using German VINs for the cars coming out of Spartanburg because they are claiming over 50% German content or something like that. It could be that the insurance company's database is getting confused with BMW being listed as an American manufacturer because of the plant here, even though all the VINs are German. Yes, I know no M3s were built there, but the insurance company doesn't know that... it's just a special 3-series with a higher premium to them. If that's the case, a whole lot of problems like this are going to surface until they figure out that BMW is in fact a German company ("duh" for you and me, but one bad database at an insurance company might wreck havoc for a while until it's straigntened out). -- Ron Katona

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#6. Re: flywheel rattle - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:41:28 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: flywheel rattle I wonder how much HP is robbed from the thicker oil? Does it offset the benefits of the lightweight flywheel? I don't know, but I'd suspect it does since the tranny is always churning through the oil. If it robs as much or more performance than the flywheel gives, then you spent probably $1000 in parts, labor, and fluid to end up with nothing! I would urge anyone who's considering a lightweight flywheel to drive a car with one in it. Let the tranny get hot too, that's when the rattle is loudest. If you like the performance, but don't like the rattle, then skip it or go with a pully. Another alternative is a custom chip with a higher idle. Thicker fluid seems counter productive to me when the point is to reduce driveline losses. -- Ron Katona Kit Wetzler wrote: > At the recommendation of Alan Taur, I replaced the tranny fluid in my 97 > M3/4 with Redline 75w140 gear oil. I have a TC Kline lightweight flywheel > and it's rattled especially with the AC on... and with it getting hotter, > I've been using the AC more. Ugh. > > I replaced the Redline D4-ATF with the 75w140 gear oil and the noise is > basically gone! I need to drive the car around for sure, but I certainly > didn't hear it! whoo! I'm happy. I really think that Redline fluids tend > to degrade over time... I suspect that my D4-ATF was pretty done (it has > been in there 11 months and 23K miles...) > > But, the rattle is just about gone. :) Makes the whole car seem more... > refined and nice.

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Anyone tracked Bridgestone RE730s? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:49:58 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Anyone tracked Bridgestone RE730s? on 6/19/01 6:34 AM, Dan Miley at dmiley@rcn.com wrote: > Before I put the other RE730s on, I'm wondering if anyone has run them in > a driving school. Did they hold up all right? I ran the Bridgestone RE730's in 245/40 (all 4 corners) for two days at Thunderhill. My first day on them was my first time at the track, so I don't think I pushed them too hard, but they felt great. Not as sticky as some tires I've driven, but very predictable. After the first day, the tires showed very little wear. On the second day (the Tuesday school with the CCA), I pushed them a little harder. I had learned the line and had a good instructor, so I started picking up speed. The 730's still held up well. The day capped out at 107-degrees! By the later runs, the tires started to get greasy from the heat. Through some of the more high speed turns, as I started to get more comfortable and push the car harder the car was starting to slide a bit and felt a bit more squirrely through the tighter stuff. Still felt very predictable though. Inspecting them at the end of the day showed the expected eraser-edge rubber debris on the ends of the tread blocks, but no uneven or chunked wear. Take all of this with a grain of salt. I'm only in Group C with the CCA and Group 2 with NASA, so I'm probably not pushing these tires any where near as hard as half the people on this list. In comparison however, I completely destroyed a set of Pirelli P-Zero's at Sears Point over two days -- causing all four tires to eventually chunk off major parts of the tread. Wasn't pretty. As an aside, I also did the Evolution Autocross School (formerly McKamey) on these tires, and they gripped like mad. I had the second fastest time in my group, and was within three seconds of an instructor in an S2000 w/ R compounds. Doesn't sound like much, but I felt pretty good creeping up on a National Champ in a _very_ fast car... These are great street/light track tires, and I think they're a great deal at $140 for the 245/40's. -peterg

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Manufacture - from Joe Tan
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:06:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Manufacture All M3 are built in Germany but your car could also be a Canadian car. But carfax report should tell you the ports of entry. If it's a US ports then it's definately a US car. Joe. -------------------- Your insurance agent is smoking something. ALL E36 M3's were made in Germany. If you really had a gray market car, it would have the infamous Euro engine with individual throttle bodies. Nick __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#9. Coupe Window Adjustment - from J. Eric Trela
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:35:20 -0400 From: "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> Subject: Coupe Window Adjustment All, Thanks to all that responded to my question on how to remove the door panel on my 95 ///M3 coupe. With the door panel off, I still cannot figure out how to adjust the window. My drivers side door window seems to go up too far when the door is closed. It actually causes the drivers door to move down about a 1/16 of an inch when the door closes and the window glass pushes up on the roof top. Wind noise is also present on the drivers side that is not present on the passenger side. How is this adjusted. Thanks, Eric

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Coupe Window Adjustment - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:25:37 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Coupe Window Adjustment Maybe this will help...just don't tell BMW. This was one of the things I was suppose to take off my web site. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/adjustwindow.htm "J. Eric Trela" wrote: > All, > > Thanks to all that responded to my question on how to remove the door > panel on my 95 ///M3 coupe. > > With the door panel off, I still cannot figure out how to adjust the > window. My drivers side door window seems to go up too far when the door > is closed. It actually causes the drivers door to move down about a 1/16 > of an inch when the door closes and the window glass pushes up on the > roof top. Wind noise is also present on the drivers side that is not > present on the passenger side. How is this adjusted. > > > Thanks, > > Eric >

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