E36M3 #1379

Wednesday, June 13, 2001 15:43:07

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] AA Exhaust Install - from Chester Wong
#2. Door panel / Window Adjustment - from J. Eric Trela
#3. Re: [E36M3] New JC Shark Injector design - from James Clay
#4. Re: Door panel separation - from JUSTIN GERRY
#5. Snorkel for intake - from Roman
#6. Re: [E36M3] Door panel / Window Adjustment - from Chester Wong
#7. Boge shocks with H&R 29910 springs? - from Dan Hermann
#8. Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors - from Jay Miller
#9. RE: [E36M3] Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors - from Jim Bassett
#10. Re: OBC Code - from thomas eby

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#1. Re: [E36M3] AA Exhaust Install - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AA Exhaust Install Get at least the rear of the car up on jackstands. If you're a large guy, you might need to get both front and rear up. Remove the old exhaust. Attach hardware to new exhaust. Prop the new one on something to hold it reasonably high enough. Slip the two pipes over the cat pipes, but don't clamp it down. Now go to the back and lift it up and put on those 12mm or 13mm nuts. There are two sealing rings for the pipes. One of them is sandwiched between the two pipes and the other one is a compression seal. I didn't know that the compression seal can move. You might actually want to get new seals and nuts and bolts...they're pretty cheap. The key to a good installation is aligning everything and then tightening the two clamps down so that the good alignment stays in place. There are a few key areas to look for in terms of clearance: - Tips between the rear valence - right side of the can with respect to the spare tire well - pipes and rear subframe carrier (where you lift the back of the car with a floor jack) I've done this procedure about 4 times in my garage by myself....so it is doable. HTH, Chester --- "Jimenez, Ariel" <ariel@megapathdsl.net> wrote: > I just received my AA exhaust today and am anxious to install it. The > question I have is whether to do it myself or take it to a shop. For those > of you that have done it, is it a difficult install? Any gotchas or advise > you could give me before I get started? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#2. Door panel / Window Adjustment - from J. Eric Trela
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:30:52 -0400 From: "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> Subject: Door panel / Window Adjustment I need to know how to remove the drivers side door panel and get to the inside. Also while I'm in there I thought I would adjust the drivers side window ( 95 coupe) since there is some slight wind noise at speed. Are there any write ups on either of these procedures anywhere? Anyone done this that can give me pointers? Thanks, Eric '95 ///M3

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#3. Re: [E36M3] New JC Shark  Injector design - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:35:38 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New JC Shark Injector design It is a new case only. Peake Research was charging a ton for the old case, this is a new case actually designed for the Shark Injector, well made, same good stuff inside. James ----------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 -----------------------------------------------------------

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#4. Re: Door panel separation - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:29:17 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Door panel separation The early E36s, 90-93 to 94 (not sure when the cut off was) had serious problems with door panels seperating. Many owners had sets replaced under warranty. My old '92 325is had all four panels go. The glue on the panels does not stand up well to heat. About the only real solution that I was able to come up with a year ago was to either leave them be or replace them all. The later cars have stiching that follows the inner part of the arm rest and indent area (at least my '97 does). My '92 did not have this and that is where the bubbling would start. IMHO, it is very doubtful the later cars will have this sort of problem. I also heard that the backing material and/or glue is different as well. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry

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#5. Snorkel for intake - from Roman
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:30:12 -0700 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: Snorkel for intake Hi All, Does anyone have a part number for the snorkel that goes from the brake duct to the intake box? I'd like to try it out so if anyone has a part number or has one for sale, I would be interested. Cheers, Roman S. 96 ///M3

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Door panel / Window Adjustment - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:35:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door panel / Window Adjustment http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/car_audio/stereo_upgrade.html HTH, Chester --- "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:30:52 -0400 > From: "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> > Subject: Door panel / Window Adjustment > > > I need to know how to remove the drivers side door panel and get to the > inside. Also while I'm in there I thought I would adjust the drivers > side window ( 95 coupe) since there is some slight wind noise at speed. > Are there any write ups on either of these procedures anywhere? Anyone > done this that can give me pointers? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#7. Boge shocks with H&R 29910 springs? - from Dan Hermann
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:32:22 -0500 From: "Dan Hermann" <dah328@hotmail.com> Subject: Boge shocks with H&R 29910 springs? It seems the previous owner of my car put H&R 29910 springs on the car and decided to replace the front struts with Bilstein sports but leave the stock Boges on the rear. After the recent threads on Bilstein suspensions, I'm thinking my rear Boges are not designed to operate on springs that lower the car as much as H&R 29910s. Also, I'm getting a crunching sound from the right rear when I drive over moderate bumps or dips. Would this type of problem be consistent with my rear suspension setup? Should I look to replace my rear Boges with Bilsteins? thanks, dan 96 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#8. Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors - from Jay Miller
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:08:59 -0700 From: "Jay Miller" <jjmiller6@hotmail.com> Subject: Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors Scott, Here's what I got so far... Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors (Fronts): 1 Ebay (Someone got some from there) 2 Autotechnic.com are coming out with some in two weeks. 3 Upgrade Motoring $130 a piece 818-998-6005 4 TcKline $148 (cryo-tempered) 5 Evosport.com $260 +Shipping for both 6 Forigen Auto Tech $251 +Shipping for both (I got these) ps. I've also been very happy with Cross-drilled rotors. And they do more than stock, because there's space for gas and heat to escape. Maybe they warp or crack under track conditions. But, Porsche and Ferrari have been putting Brembo drilled on as stock for years. and, of course, they look really cool. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:23:30 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Results: Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors > ps. I've also been very happy with Cross-drilled rotors. And > they do more > than stock, because there's space for gas and heat to escape. > Maybe they > warp or crack under track conditions. But, Porsche and > Ferrari have been > putting Brembo drilled on as stock for years. Actually, the Porsche rotors are *cast* with the holes, not drilled. Helps to reduce (eliminate?) cracking. Dunno about the Ferrari ones. And FWIW, I used a set of drilled rotors on the front for track rotors for a few events. I didn't like the feel of the rotors (you could really feel the "cheese-grater" effect. Yuck!), and after a couple of weekends there was significant cracking at the holes. And I didn't notice a significant difference in braking capability vs. my usual "plain" Brembos. YMMV. I will admit they looked cool though :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4

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#10. Re: OBC Code - from thomas eby
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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:41:16 -0700 From: "thomas eby" <thomaseby@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: OBC Code I, too, have found it very odd that you can double lock the trunk lid but still gain access to the trunk through the unlockable folding seats. Makes the "valet key" pointless (except for the glovebox). So much for attention to detail . . . tom eby 96 m3 74 02 -- <snip> >It is disabled when you unhook the battery. I >especially like reading the owner's manual stating >that once the doors are double locked you can't get >into the trunk. But the latch for the folding seats >are very obvious. Instant access to the battery. So, </snip> > >Ed Tang >95 Cosmos M3 -- _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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