E36M3 #1348

Tuesday, June 05, 2001 00:14:18

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. For Sale : Pair of Brand New Schroth Rallye 4 Harnessbelts, - from Geof McLaughlin
#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Butt's in the air after new bushings - from Ron Katona
#3. Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
#4. Instrument Cluster Removal - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
#5. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from NickG
#6. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from Matt Henson
#7. Re: 95 strut tower reinforcement - from Neil Maller
#8. Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from Andbmw@aol.com
#10. Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from Andbmw@aol.com

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#1. For Sale : Pair of Brand New Schroth Rallye 4 Harnessbelts, - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 20:16:37 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: For Sale : Pair of Brand New Schroth Rallye 4 Harnessbelts, Save $50 Save $50 + free shipping on a pair of brand new, never used, black Schroth Rallye 4 harnessbelts. Street price is $290. Less $50, your price is $240 and includes free shipping. 1997 and earlier M3s need a pair of special adapter bolts which are not included (about $15 at HMS Motorsport) Geof

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Butt's in the air after new bushings - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 21:19:59 -0400 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Butt's in the air after new bushings Matt Henson wrote: > Hi Ron, > I'm talking about the angle of the carrier wrt the > arm. There is a bolt that goes through the carrier > and the bushing. Before the bolt is tightened you can > adjust its angle. If the angle is off then the > bushing will be twisted. OK, I understand now. Yeah, I think that's a possibility now that I think about it. > Your idea about having a second preload point is > pretty good. I only disconnected the shocks and > parking brake cables for this job. Hmm... parking brake cables? I don't think that could do it, although I wonder why you had to release them? Did you remove the whole TA? The shocks shouldn't bind since they're on a bushing around the bolt... but stranger things have happened. I'd just loosen what you can with weight on the car and retighten before tearing anything apart again completely. It might get something to settle out. -- Ron Katona

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#3. Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 20:48:15 -0500 From: kmcleaster@iquest.net Subject: Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities Does anyone know is its ok to mix viscosities of Mobil 1 engine oil, eg. 15W50 with 10W30 ? Would a 50-50 mix yield 12.5W40 ? I'm thinking that 15W50 is a bit too heavy for the midwest, even in the summer. Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3 Arctic Silver

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#4. Instrument Cluster Removal - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 21:06:36 -0500 From: kmcleaster@iquest.net Subject: Instrument Cluster Removal The E36 Bentley Manual says that the steering wheel and airbag assembly must be removed to remove the instrument cluster. Is this absolutely necessary? Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3 Arctic Silver

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 22:20:47 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal > The E36 Bentley Manual says that the steering wheel and airbag assembly > must be removed to remove the instrument cluster. > > Is this absolutely necessary? Nope, it'll clear with the steering wheel installed. Nick

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from Matt Henson
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 20:39:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal Yes, at least on the '95 with the adjustable wheel. If the car doesn't have a tilt-o-wheel then will is still clear? -Matt --- NickG <nikog@MediaOne.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 22:20:47 -0400 > From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal > > > The E36 Bentley Manual says that the steering > wheel and airbag assembly > > must be removed to remove the instrument cluster. > > > > Is this absolutely necessary? > > Nope, it'll clear with the steering wheel installed. > > Nick > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#7. Re: 95 strut tower reinforcement - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 22:49:12 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 95 strut tower reinforcement on 6/4/01 6:43 PM, "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> wrote: > I have a 95 ///M3 and have purchased the strut tower reinforcement > plates from the 96+ cars. What is involved in the installation? Is > there a write somewhere? I am really not sure how to get the strut out > of the way - is a spring compressor needed? It's pretty easy, and no spring compressors are needed. And in fact I've found it's not even necessary to fully remove the struts or any part of the brakes. Here's how: - Jack both sides of the front of the car and support on stands. Remove both wheels. - Unbolt a swaybar link on one side (you should be able to leave the other in place) using a slender 16mm wrench to secure the link bolt by its flats, and a 16mm socket to undo the nut. The flats are hidden behind the link mounting bracket on the strut. This is necessary to allow working on just one side of the car at a time, otherwise the swaybar will work to support the opposite side. - Place a small jack under one hub/kingpin. Undo the 3 nuts holding one of the struts to the strut tower. Slowly lower the jack, allowing this strut to drop a few inches, making sure neither the brake hose, the ABS wire nor brake sensor wire are strained. If necessary take the brake hose out of its guide on the strut to give more slack. This isn't necessary on my car, but your brake hose free length may vary. - Reach up inside the strut tower to the top of the strut and fish out the paper mounting gasket. Reach back in and drop the reinforcing plate over the bearing plate bolts, then add a new gasket. You could reuse the old one if it's still in good shape. - Slowly jack up the hub and guide the three bearing plate studs into their holes in the strut tower. Make sure its orientation is correct. This is easier with two people, but otherwise stand to guide the studs, while working the jack handle with your foot. Tighten the three nuts to 22 lb-ft; don't overtighten. - Repeat for the other side. - Reattach the swaybar link you removed, mount both wheels and you're good to go. Neil 96 M3

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:04:31 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities Kevin, Sure. No problem mixing viscosity's. In fact, you can mix Mobil 1 with regular non-sythetic oil. I don't know what the new viscosity of the mix would equal but obviously 10W-30 would lower 15W-50. Out of curiosity, why do you think 15W-50 is too heavy? I'm probably crazy :-) but I have used heavier and heavier oil in my M3. The last couple of summers in Dallas we have had 50+ days over 100. I used straight 60W Valvoline Racing oil last summer. And even in the winter time I use 5 quarts of 20W-50 Valvoline Dura Blend + 2 quarts of straight 50W Valvoline Racing oil. I never have to add oil during my 3,000 mile oil changes. :-) Lowell Seaton '95M3/2 Dallas, Texas

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal - from Andbmw@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:50:19 EDT From: Andbmw@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Instrument Cluster Removal yes this is neccessary. with it loose you barly have room to get to some of the bulbs. but removing it all together is (airbag,steering wheel) imposible. you can try it but you'll break an ear off the cluster or crack the face. not worth the effort. the tools you will need. torx t25, 16mm socket, breaker bar, hammer , punch, phillips head pocket screw drive. 13mm wrench. FIRSTthing you must do. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!! you do not want any power in the mrs system, thats the multiple restraint system, ie airbag. you could set it off, you may already know this but i have to stress how potentaly dangerous this air bag is! SECOND loosen the torx bolts (t25) behind the air bag on the steering wheel. they will not come out but the air bag will come loose and there is a 2 pin orange or yellow conector in the center of the backside of the air bag, pry it out gently, do not damage the connector because air bag operation and fault monitering and very voltage and resistance sensitive meaning if break a wire you have to replace it...not tape together or solder. pull the brown ground wire off and set the airbag in a safe place face up. THIRD take the philips screw driver and remove the plastic screwon the bottom of the steering colunm and pull the plastic cover off the bottom of the column. disconnect the orange or yellow connector on the under side of the column.take the punch and mark the wheel and the steering column so you can line them up perfectly upon installation. FORTH remove the 2 screws from the top of the cluster and pull out the cluster. disconect the connectors and your done.. just reverse the order to get it back togther. good luck and respect the air bag!!! Andrew Halprin 95 M3 86 325e master technision

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities - from Andbmw@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 01:05:19 EDT From: Andbmw@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mixing Mobil 1 Viscosities out of curiosity....why are you mixing oil in the winter and not staying with faster flowing at cold temperture full synthetics. take apart an engine run on regular oils and you can tell the differance between the ones that have had full life span synthetics, but if you have a different opinion than that i'd like to here it.

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