E36M3 #1347

Monday, June 04, 2001 18:34:08

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? - from Luis Veras
#2. OBC Retrofit??? - from BRIAN DAVIS
#3. Re: Koni installation tips? - from Neil Maller
#4. Re: Koni installation tips? - from Neil Maller
#5. 95 strut tower reinforcement - from J. Eric Trela
#6. Fire extinguisher mount - from Chester Wong
#7. Vandalism Pictures - from Wayne Miller
#8. WTB: Track wheels - from Frank, Mike
#9. RE: [E36M3] 95 strut tower reinforcement - from Fadeev, Alex
#10. Rotex VS Porterfields R4S- was Street/Light Autox Brake pads? - from Paul Elliott

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? - from Luis Veras
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 14:22:13 -0400 From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? Interesting... how much did he end up paying? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 10:53 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? > Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 14:48:31 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? > > Luis, > > Another data point... > > I spoke with a local shop owner, who installed an AA kit for one of his > customers. When he saw the sandwiched head gasket (to lower the > compression), he told the customer that he didn't want to install the poorly > engineered solution. The shop owner also insisted that he should replace > the stock connecting rods with stronger rods. The customer insisted on > installing the kit "as shipped", so the shop installed it. The customer > ended up blowing his engine. The shop owner showed me the bent connecting > rods and burnt pistons. Fugly! > > The shop built a new engine for the customer, adding a turbo and doing it > the "right way". The car dynoed now dynos at over 420 hp, and has been > flawless. > > The shop owner said he'd never install another AA kit for a customer. > > -rb > > >Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 19:58:20 -0400 > >From: "Luis Veras" <veras@tricom.net> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: What about the S54? > > > >Hey, AA's turbo is not an improvised cheap modification. It's based on the > >mods that the world's fastest M3 is made of, and it is in fact a very > >reliable car. > >Check out http://www.advancedgeneration.com/turboM3.htm and read all about > >it. As for the AA turbo, you can get more info at > >http://www.activeautowerke.com/turbo/OBD2-E36Turbo.asp. For $10,400 you can > >get 398 HP in your car, 0-60 in 4.4 seconds and 1/4 mile in 12.55 secs. Of > >course, you will then have to install a heavy duty clutch to support all > >that power, which will set you back an additional grand. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#2. OBC Retrofit??? - from BRIAN DAVIS
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 14:33:57 -0400 From: "BRIAN DAVIS" <FISICO@email.msn.com> Subject: OBC Retrofit??? Folks, =20 A prospective buyer of my 99M3/2 asked me if it is possible/easy to install an OBC in an E36M3 not originally equipped with one. Any info as to possibilities and price would be appreciated. =20 TIA, Brian=20

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#3. Re: Koni installation tips? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 13:36:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni installation tips? on 6/4/01 1:23 PM, Robert Liu <bob_a_liu@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 07:07:40 -0700 (PDT) > From: Robert Liu <bob_a_liu@yahoo.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Koni installation tips? > > I'm getting ready to install Koni shocks on my car > this week or weekend. Any installation suggestions or > tips? I'm going to get the new E46 M3 rear shock > mounts and Z3 reinforcement plates while I'm at it. > > TIA! > Bob Bob, See below. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------------------------------------------- E36 M3 KONI STRUT CARTRIDGE INSERT PROCEDURE Koni doesn't make complete struts for the M3, so you have to cut apart your stock casings and bolt in the Koni cartridge inserts. There are no published instructions that I know of, other than what comes with the Konis (very generic). NOTE: As of early 2001 Koni is now advertising a complete M3 coilover strut, in addition to the cartridge inserts. Unfortunately I haven't been able to examine one of these yet. So here goes: - Remove the strut assemblies from the car. - Using a spring compressor plus suitable hand tools, take the assemblies apart. Carefully note the order and orientation of the various washers, plates, etc. Mark them! Unscrew the plastic clip that secures the ABS and brake sensor wires to the strut casing. Reserve these parts for reuse. TIP: When using the spring compressor, wrap the jaws where they hold the spring coils using fabric electrical tape (the old fashioned sticky/gummy kind, not the smooth vinyl tape). This will stop the jaws from slipping, and also protect the spring's paint finish.) TIP: Have your dealer print out the exploded view of the strut assembly from his parts computer, very useful. - Take your donor struts, use soft jaws or a cloth to protect their finish, and clamp in a bench vise. Use a punch to mark the geometric centre of the convex bottom of the strut. Try to be accurate, this will be important later. - Now use a small drill bit (about 1/8' or 3 mm is good) to drill into the strut at the punch mark you made WARNING: When you get through, hydraulic fluid and gas under pressure will escape through this hole. Wrap a rag around the area, but it'll still spray you. Now hold the strut upright over a basin, and pump the shaft in and out until as much hydraulic fluid is expelled as possible. - Pull the black plastic cap off the top end of the strut body if you haven't already. This reveals the end of the strut casing where its metal end is welded or crimped on. - Now you will need to cut this end off, making your cut as near the end as possible, but far enough down to clear all traces of the original crimp or weld. You will cut all around the circumference of the casing. To help keep your cut straight, wrap tape around and follow the tape edge with your cut. I used an air cutoff tool with abrasive wheel, but a hacksaw will do the job. You can also buy a strut cutoff tool at most auto parts stores or at Sears. It looks like an oversized pipe cutter and isn't very expensive. - Once your cut is complete, you will be able to pull off and discard the strut casing's end cap and withdraw the shaft and all internal parts, leaving only the empty bottom casing. Deburr the cut edge with a file. - Now drill out the pilot hole in the strut casing bottom to the specified size (14 mm or 9/16"). - At this point clean up and degrease the empty strut casings. I sent mine out to be bead blasted and powder coated, a deal for $50 the pair at a local specialty paint shop. "Safety Yellow" was a pretty good match to the Koni yellow colour. - Slip the Koni shock insert into your strut casing. It will probably not go all the way down by hand. Use a wood block and mallet against the top cap of the Koni shock body (not the shaft) to tap the cartridge into the casing. Look through the bottom hole you drilled to see how far in it is. Once you get it far enough down, the bolt that goes in the bottom hole can be used to draw the cartridge down (now you see why the hole had to be accurately centred). Gently tap it/draw it in until it seats, be patient. Torque the bottom bolt to spec, making sure its special washer has the concave surface toward the casing. - Put the original black plastic caps back on the top end of the strut casing, they'll hide your cut edge nicely. - You now have a Koni strut, complete and ready to reassemble in the conventional way. - I recommend that you replace the rubber inserts in the top and bottom spring perches, they're cheap. Don't forget to put back the rubber bump stop on the shock shaft, and the dust sleeve. Make sure all the washers and plates go together in the correct order and orientation. NOTE: If you use your car on the track, cut the rubber bump stops at the first ridge from the bottom to shorten them, or cut an equivalent amount from the top instead ( may be better). Otherwise you can hit the bump stops prematurely in hard cornering. - Once you've assembled the strut and torqued the top nut (using my method, see below, or your own), make sure the bearing plate turns freely. If not, something's put together wrong, BZZZ! Try again. - The small (about 1.5" diameter) black plastic inner caps that normally block the hole in the top of the strut bearing plate will not longer fit, since the Koni's adjustment tab sticks up too far. If you drill a clearance hole in the cap you can make it fit very tidily, and still adjust the shock without removing the cap. - When remounting the completed strut assemblies in the car you must replace the following hardware with new (BMW uses cheapo crimped locknuts that only work once): The 2 lower strut to steering knuckle bolts (or, use Loctite red on old ones if necessary) Locknut on upper strut to steering knuckle pivot bolt Locknut on swaybar link bolt. 3 upper bearing plate mounting nuts (optional IMO) - Make sure that everything is torqued to spec. This isn't an area where you want to make mistakes and have something come loose. ------------------------------------------------------------------- E36 M3 KONI STRUT ASSEMBLY TOOL/TECHNIQUE When you put the strut assemblies back together using the Konis, you have the same problem torquing the big top nut as with stock struts. But with Konis it's important to keep the shaft from turning as you torque this nut, since otherwise you can end up turning against the stop on the Koni's internal adjustment mechanism, and can break it. Very expensive error! Newer Koni's have a hex head on the shaft which you can use to keep it from turning. The Koni instructions tell you to use a simple open end wrench to hold the shaft, but in the BMW strut assembly the hex end is deeply recessed into the bearing plates, so you can't get to it. Based on an idea by Bob Stommel, here's how to make a special concentric socket tool. Buy a 22mm deep pattern 1/2" drive socket. At the square drive end, file or grind a pair of flats at 180 degrees to one another so that you can put an open end wrench on them. I used a bench grinder to do this. Now take a 3/8" drive extension and pass it down through your modified socket. Attach a socket of the proper size for the Koni's shaft to the bottom of the extension, and a ratchet handle to the top, with the 22mm socket captured in between. Thread the large central nut on to the Koni shaft. Position the small socket on its extension over the shaft hex, then drop the 22mm socket down so that it engages the large nut. Using the ratchet handle you can now hold the shock shaft stationary, while turning the nut with an open end wrench on the 22mm socket's flats. Questions, suggestions, errata? E-mail me at neil.maller@gte.net Neil 96 M3

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#4. Re: Koni installation tips? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 13:40:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni installation tips? Group, My apologies, I just sent a long installation instruction to this Digest rather than privately to the intended recipient. Sorry about that, the rest of you just page down. Neil 96 M3

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#5. 95 strut tower reinforcement - from J. Eric Trela
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 15:07:28 -0400 From: "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> Subject: 95 strut tower reinforcement Hello, I have a 95 ///M3 and have purchased the strut tower reinforcement plates from the 96+ cars. What is involved in the installation? Is there a write somewhere? I am really not sure how to get the strut out of the way - is a spring compressor needed? Thanks Eric

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#6. Fire extinguisher mount - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:48:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Fire extinguisher mount Hi guys. Just wanted to let y'all know that if you were planning on buying the Brey-Krause and have manual seats, don't get it just yet. I ordered one early last week only to find that it doesn't fit my car (manual seats). I followed up with the folks at Brey-Krause and they were unaware that there were differences between the powered and non powered seats. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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#7. Vandalism Pictures - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 16:07:11 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Vandalism Pictures For those that are curious, look here: http://216.35.73.137/M3/Damage/ I went to a body shop this morning and got an estimate of about $1,600 to fix everything. They estimated 3 hours to repair the door and 4 hours to fix the wiring harness plus parts (remember, the forged wheel is about $550 alone). Thanks for all the well-wishes from those that sent them. -Wayne

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#8. WTB: Track wheels - from Frank, Mike
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 16:00:05 -0500 From: "Frank, Mike" <mikefrank@lucent.com> Subject: WTB: Track wheels Checking to see if anyone has some track wheels they're looking to sell. Looking for 17x8.5 or 17x9, light, strong, quality wheels. Must be straight, no bends. Don't really care if they have some scratches, chipped paint, etc. - will spend life collecting brake dust and rubber chunks. Would also be interested in 17x8 BBS RKs. Not interested in any OE BMW wheels. Thanks, Mike Frank

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#9. RE: [E36M3] 95 strut tower reinforcement - from Fadeev, Alex
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:59:42 -0400 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 strut tower reinforcement J. Eric Trela [mailto:trela@cyberlogtech.com] wrote: > > I have a 95 ///M3 and have purchased the strut tower reinforcement > plates from the 96+ cars. What is involved in the installation? As you can see by looking at the plates, they are nothing more than a reinforcement sleeve that goes between the upper strut bearing and the strut tower. You should be able to install them by just remove the strut/spring assembly, adding the plates to the top of the strut bearing and bolting it back to the strut tower. The only things you would need to remove are the wheel, the brake caliper and the sway bar links from the strut tower. Should be fairly painless. > Is there a write somewhere? I am really not sure how to get the > strut out of the way - is a spring compressor needed? Nope. alex f

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#10. Rotex VS Porterfields R4S- was Street/Light Autox Brake pads? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:31:53 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Rotex VS Porterfields R4S- was Street/Light Autox Brake pads? Tommy, >>. I'm looking for low dust and good performance but *do not* want to drive a squealing pig. << I havnt driven the Porterfields, but alot of people recommend them. I Have driven the Repco/PBR/Axis 'solution' though, and the Rotex are much superior in every performance measurement category. --------------------------------------------------------- Paul Elliott '99 White M3; < 30K miles; Dinan stage II sc kit; Rotex pads; Steiger SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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